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Greek Fine Wine

Along with several regions in central Europe, Greece has, over the past few decades, experienced a dramatic renaissance of its wine scene, shedding its outdated image of rustic bulk wine and emerging as a serious player at the more premium end of the market.

The New Wave

The transformation began in the 1990s, driven by a new wave of winemakers who had gained experience in wine regions overseas, and returned with a drive to modernise their vineyards and renew the focus on indigenous grape varieties. Today, Greece’s premium wines are the result of a combination of long-standing terroirs, native grapes and precise winemakers who are unafraid to experiment with low-intervention techniques, from wild yeasts to organic practices. With over 300 indigenous grape varieties to draw from, plus extreme geological diversity and a vast array of different islands, Greece offers a rich and diverse tapestry. This has been embraced not only by its winemakers, but by sommeliers in particular, who prize the food-friendly wines for their originality, authenticity and strong sense of place.
Popular Greek wine
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Popular Greek wine regions and styles

There’s little doubt that much of the excitement around Greek wines’ increased reputation over the last couple of decades relates to the wines coming from individual islands – most notably the volcanic soils of Santorini. Most of these wines harness native varieties. Assyrtiko leads the way with whites, delivered in compelling fashion via mineral-tinged acidity often married with native yeasts to lend a further ‘wildness’ to these hugely characterful wines. The most renowned red wines are from grapes such as Xinomavro and Agiorgitiko, which can be surprisingly light and lively considering Greece’s average temperatures. While several top examples are made on the mainland, in spots such as Nemea, here again, the sea breezes and mineral-rich soils add a welcome freshness and lift.

Greek wine FAQs

What are the main grape varieties of Greece?

At the heart of Greece’s fine wine identity are its native varieties – and arguably none is more prized than the white grape Assyrtiko. With a pronounced saline minerality, racy acidity and fine ageing potential, it is hard to compare with any other grape variety – the best examples marry the lift and acidity of Chablis with the texture and weight of a good Loire Chenin Blanc. Xinomavro is the standout red variety, similarly imbued with refreshing acidity, but also structured tannins that, with a sour cherry and tomato leaf profile, draw comparisons with Nebbiolo – not least in its ageing capacity. In the Peloponnese, the more plush, dark-fruited Agiorgitiko is worth trying for its ability to combine richness with finesse.

Why is Santorini seen as so exciting?

The black, volcanic soils of Santorini lend pronounced minerality and vibrancy to its white wines in particular, notably those made from Assyrtiko. The island is home to a clutch of smallscale producers who have seen the potential of this terroir, and are producing wines of real energy and verve, that speak of their provenance in a style that is hard to find anywhere else in the world.

Greek Wine Producers

Greece’s array of producers is as varied as its range of grape varieties and wines. But if you are looking for examples of pioneers within the country’s contemporary wine revolution, look no further than the likes of Hatzidakis and Gaia, both of whom were founded in the 1990s on Santorini. Hatzidakis harnesses old, sometimes ungrafted vines on the island’s volcanic soils, worked organically with minimal intervention to express their origins via vibrant minerality married to rich structure. Gaia too focuses on the salinity and texture of the native Assyrtiko, sometimes made in avant-garde styles via ageing in amphorae. It has also expanded to the mainland region of Nemea, in the Peloponnese, where it specialises in fresh, fruit-forward renderings of the red variety Agiorgitiko
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