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Burgundy Fine wine

For many lovers of fine wine, Burgundy stands as the ultimate expression of the wondrous complexity that it is possible to draw from the humble grape. The crop grown in Burgundy’s famous Côte d’Or, however, is far from humble. The vineyards here are among the most expensive farming land anywhere in the world, with the top crus yielding wines that fetch similarly eye-watering prices.

Burgundy whites and reds

From Mâcon to Montrachet, Mercurey to Meursault, the white wines of Burgundy somehow manage to span a huge range of styles, characteristics – and prices – while being drawn largely from a single grape variety. At the top end, the likes of grand cru Corton-Charlemagne and Chassagne-Montrachet represent a vision and version of Chardonnay that is hard to replicate anywhere else in the world. The reds, meanwhile, are, if anything, even more revered.

The Pinot Noir that is cultivated here – sometimes from tiny plots of land whose qualities vary from one side of the road to the other – yields wines of almost impossible delicacy, finesse and nuance, whose complexity unfurls hypnotically over time. Red Burgundy is not solely about Romanée-Conti and Richebourg, however, with huge pleasure to be drawn from wines right across the spectrum, from Pommard to Volnay, Gevrey-Chambertin to Chambolle-Musigny.

Popular Burgundy wine
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Burgundy wine classifications

The stereotype about Burgundy is that it is a complex region to master, given its focus on terroir and the countless different vineyards and crus. At its most basic, however, there are only a handful of elements to focus on – grape variety is not an issue, given (nearly) all whites are Chardonnay and all reds Pinot Noir. Beyond that, there are four core categories, in ascending order of quality: generic (‘Bourgorgne’) wines; village level wines; premier cru; and grand cru. The top three of these see wines categorised according to the vineyard rather than the producer (sites are often split between various owners, meaning that a single ‘cru’ can yield several wines from various different names). And, of course, within these categories there are a whole host of different sites – all of which only adds to the endless fascination of the region as a whole.

Burgundy wine FAQs

Why is Burgundy so expensive?

In short, it’s a simple case of supply and demand. Many of the top wines, sourced from tiny plots, are made in such small quantities that there is simply not enough to go around – particularly given the marginal climate of Burgundy, which can sometimes dramatically reduce production if a year is hit by frost or severe rain. And in recent years, Burgundy has become the darling of collectors, some of whom tired of Bordeaux’s constant price rises and the time it can take for the wines to come around, compared to those of Burgundy, which offer more immediate pleasure. Now, of course, its top wines are also extravagantly priced, but beyond the very top rank, there is abundant interest for savvy buyers.

How do you find good value in Burgundy?

There are two key elements to consider when buying Burgundy – vineyard and producer. And while it’s true that the very top grands crus tend only to be the preserve of top producers, making them prohibitively expensive, there are many opportunities to be found by by-passing one or other of these elements. All grand-cru and premier-cru sites are, in theory, quality vineyards, so even if harvested by a lesser-known producer, they should still yield a quality wine. Likewise, the very top producers are not in the habit of making average wines, so even when tending more modest sites – in fact particularly when tending more modest sites – their rigour in vineyard and winery is likely to lead to good results.

Burgundy wine producers

While Burgundy producers tend to specialise in certain regions – notably the commune in which they are based – most will make wines from a spread of villages and vineyards. Negociants – who largely rely on purchased grapes and then make the wines themselves – tend to have a wider portfolio, with the likes of Louis Latour, Louis Jadot and Faiveley making a huge array of wines right across the region. Domaines, meanwhile, who both own the land and make the wine, tend to focus on a smaller number of wines (not least because vineyard land in Burgundy is so expensive, and rarely changes hands). Standout producers such as Marquis d’Angerville (Volnay), Patrick Javillier (Meursault) and Paul Pillot (Chassagne-Montrachet) have carved out a reputation in specific villages.
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