Alsace Pinot Gris

The reputation of Pinot Gris has been somewhat tarnished by the lakes of insipid Pinot Grigio that have washed around the supermarket shelves in recent years. But in the hands of diligent producers who understand the grape variety’s potential, it can yield wines of subtle delicacy and nuance. And few regions showcase this more vividly than Alsace, on France’s eastern flank, which make a virtue of Pinot Gris, as it is known here, via wines of real weight and substance. While most such wines are made in a zesty, racy, bone-dry style, look too for lush, sweet interpretations.