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Californian Fine wine

California is by far the most renowned source of US fine wine, across a range of grape varieties, styles and prices. And while few wine lovers get too excited about the mass market brands coming out of the state’s Central Coast vineyards, at the other end of the scale, some Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons can rival the most famous wines in the world when it comes to ambition and price.

Napa: California's darling

Napa remains California’s darling, its Cabernet Sauvignons as polished and poised as the many wineries that line the valley and draw a stream of day-trippers from nearby San Francisco. Here, Cabernet is king, yielding rich, ripe reds that showcase the generosity and structure that the variety can offer. But the state is also increasingly known for more varied fare – be that in terms of more complex, multi-dimensional Bordeaux-style reds from its Napa heartland, or via lighter styles from elsewhere. Sonoma Pinot Noir is becoming ever-more nuanced and elegant, as are the Syrahs of Paso Robles or the cooler-climate red blends from higher elevations in Santa Cruz. And most significantly, many of the wines evolve into far more layered, age worthy wines than California is often given credit for.
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Californian wine styles and grape varieties

California – and the US in general – doesn’t have strict appellations with laws governing what can and can’t be grown, but it does have American Viticultural Areas, which demarcate regions geographically, and provide useful stylistic reference points. So while many people talk of Napa Valley as one holistic region, the AVAs of Oakville and Rutherford, on the valley floor, tend to yield fuller, riper wines than those of Howell Mountain or Spring Mountain, where grapes are grown at a higher altitude. Outside Napa, notable AVAs to look for include Russian River Valley in Sonoma, west of Napa, which has forged a reputation for fine Pinot Noir; Santa Cruz Mountains to the south, home to elegant Bordeaux blends such as those of Ridge Vineyards; and Paso Robles, further south still, which is a hotbed for Syrah.

Californian wine FAQs

Is Napa Valley still the premier Californian wine region?

Napa famously produces just 4% of California’s wines, but seems to carry the state’s vinous reputation with it. That’s largely due to its pre-eminence when it comes to fine wines, notably the rich, powerful, ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignons that dominate the landscape within the valley and have proven to be some of the most coveted wines in many collectors’ cellars. And while many of these wines have been tweaked to incorporate other varieties, and other regions such as Sonoma and Santa Cruz Mountains have proven themselves sources of more varied ranges, the majority of the state’s – and the country’s – most renowned fine wines still tend to be Napa Cabs of one sort of another.

Aren’t most Californian wines just big, bold, blockbusters?

That was certainly the traditional stereotype. And at the very top end – think Napa Cabernet – it was largely accurate back in the early part of this century, when the verdicts of uber-critic Robert Parker, who loved such wines, held huge sway. Things have changed since his retirement, though – and not just because he’s no longer so influential. Critical and consumer tastes seem to be moving away from power towards elegance, while producers themselves have responded to concerns over the ageability of such wines by favouring acidity over ripeness and producing more nuanced, elegant fare (Harlan Estate, one of Napa’s top names, now harvests a month earlier than it used to, to avoid over-ripe grapes). Climate change has also had a huge impact, with many winemakers taking measures to mitigate the impact of higher temperatures in a bid to produce more restrained wines. The cooler Sonoma, meanwhile, is an increasingly acclaimed source of fine Pinot Noir.

Californian Wine Producers

While venerable producers such as Mayacamas can trace their history back to the 19th century, the most celebrated names of California are probably those who set up in Napa Valley’s golden age of the 1970s – among them such luminaries as Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Joseph Phelps and Shafer. These trailblazers were followed by such ambitious wineries as Opus One, Harlan Estate, Dominus Estate and Colgin Estate, who took Napa wines to previously unimagined levels of prestige. More recently, producers such as Favia, Matthiason and Ashes & Diamonds have taken a more vineyard-led approach, starting as growers before developing their brand. In other regions across the state, Ridge Vineyards and Rhys Vineyards lead the way in the cooler Santa Cruz mountains, while Littorai, Kutch and Flowers are among the most notable producers of Pinot Noir in Sonoma.
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