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American Fine Wine
California and beyond
California remains the most renowned haven of US fine wine, across a range of grape varieties, styles and prices. Some Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons rival the most famous wines in the world when it comes to ambition and price, but the state is also increasingly known for more nuanced fare – be that in terms of more complex, multi-dimensional Bordeaux-style reds from its Napa heartland, or via such styles as Sonoma Pinot Noir, Paso Robles Syrah, or cooler-climate blends from higher elevations in Santa Cruz. Such red wines remain the calling card of the state, but further afield, Chardonnay is a coming force in Oregon, which takes it cues from Burgundy in also producing fine Pinot (some of it courtesy of Burgundian producers who have invested in vineyards in the state).
American wine styles and grape varieties
American Wine FAQs
Aren’t most US wines just big, bold, Napa blockbusters?
Napa famously produces just 4% of California’s wines, but seems to carry the state’s vinous reputation with it. That’s largely due to its pre-eminence when it comes to fine wines, notably the powerful, rich, ageworthy Cabernets that dominate the landscape within the valley and have proven to be some of the most coveted wines in many collectors’ cellars. At the very top end, the ‘blockbuster’ stereotype was largely accurate back in the early part of this century, when the verdicts of uber-critic Robert Parker, who loved such
wines, held huge sway. Things have changed since his retirement, though – and not just because he’s no longer so influential. Critical and consumer tastes seem to be moving away from power towards elegance, while producers themselves have responded to concerns over the ageability of such wines by favouring acidity over ripeness and producing more nuanced, elegant fare (Harlan Estate, one of Napa’s top names, now harvests a month earlier than it used to, to avoid over-ripe grapes). Climate change has also had a huge impact, with many winemakers taking measures to mitigate the impact of higher temperatures in a bid to produce more restrained wines.
Which regions are interesting beyond California?
Oregon is without question the second most important state for fine wine, largely on the back of its Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. The wine revolution here came a bit later than Napa Valley’s golden age of the 1970s, with the late 1980s kickstarting a huge growth in plantings, not least after the arrival of Burgundian family Drouhin to the region. Since then, know-how, investment and confidence have all grown, with the sub-regions of Willamette Valley and Dundee Hills leading the way in terms of quality. Beyond Oregon, Washington State is the source of some increasingly lauded red wines, notably Syrah, the best of which can yield rounded, smoky yet elegant renderings.