2022 Château Labégorce, Cru Bourgeois Margaux

Very different in shape and feel than sibling Tour de Mons, still lots of spice, more cardamon, cloves and grilled sandalwood. There is density and concentration, and clear tannic heft, one block stacking up along the next, closing in on the palate, showing astringency and a huge future ahead of it. Clear eucalyptus, black pepper, drawing the flavours out through the palate. Harvest September 12 to October 5. 3.6ph. Marjolaine de Coninck CEO and technical director. The blend given is planted, not as per final wine, allowing slight evolution over ageing, so these are ones to check back in on when in bottle. Mid silver. 40% new oak.

I continue to love the wines from Labégorce. Their 2022 checks in as 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Classic notes of darker currants, blackberries, smoked tobacco, and fresh earth all flow to a medium to full-bodied, pure, layered Margaux offering quality tannins as well as terrific purity of fruit. Pulled from 85% of the total production and aging in 40% new French oak, it's going to offer pleasure right out of the gate yet still have two decades of longevity.

The 2022 Labégorce shows terrific energy and focus. Dark cherry, espresso, menthol, licorice and incense are beautifully delineated in a vibrant, pulsating Margaux loaded with complexity. All this needs is élevage to soften.