2021 Château l'Evangile, Pomerol

The 2021 L'Évangile, aged in just 40% new oak from four cooperages and 15% amphora, is the first vintage to be made under certified organic. On the nose, it offers mainly red fruit, well-defined with black truffle and cigar smoked emerging with time. As I wrote during primeur, it exudes Pomerol DNA on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky-smooth entry, quite complex with black pepper and clove percolating through the red fruit. This is not powerful, but there is a heap of personality and a sustained, truffle- and black pepper-tinged finish, a ferrous tincture lining the aftertaste. A superb wine in the context of a tricky growing season, it will be fascinating to watch evolve in bottle.

The 2021 L’Évangile is one of the triumphs of the year, especially considering L'Évangile is now farmed biodynamically. Sharply reduced yields—20 hectoliters-per-hectare versus upper 30s for the rest of the appellation—produced a deeply sensual wine. The 2021 spent 18 months in barrel, 40% new (significantly lower than in the past), with 15% of the wine aged in terra cotta. Those are only details though. What is most encouraging about L'Évangile is how far the property has come in the last few years. Superb. The 2021 L'Évangile is a model of contemporary excellence. It marries classicism with modern approaches to farming and winemaking.

Unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark cherries and berries mingled with notions of licorice, black truffle, rose petal and iris, the 2021 L'Evangile is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a broad and textural attack that segues into a charming, succulent mid-palate framed by sweet, powdery tannins. This saw only two rackings, and some 15% matured in amphora, with the rest in barriques that are less toasty than in the past; the result of these and other initiatives is a much more timeless expression of this property. Bottled in May 2023.